In Burgundy, Paulée celebrations mark the end of the grape harvest, but why wait? Each Paulée is a chance to come together to celebrate the terroir of this special place, the unique conditions of this particular year, and the singular group gathered together to share their craft and the (literal) fruits of their labor. Winemakers bring their favorite bottles from previous vintages to share, passing around harvest tips while pouring glasses, and taking a minute in the midst of a very busy season to slow down and simply spend some time together.

The entire evening was punctuated with the clink of glassware as waves of cheers washed around the table, guests drawn together in good conversation until the sunlight faded and the lights of the nearby inn washed over the lawn.

After a long winter, spring always starts achingly slowly, taking its sweet time to unfurl until the whole world seems to stutter into life all at once. It’s easy to give into impatience and miss those first few days, when the bravest trees start to bloom but the weather hasn’t quite decided which way to turn.

As the California sunlight thickened into syrupy gold at sunset, the previously bare table gained a truly unique tablescape we could never have outmatched: gorgeous bottles of all shapes and sizes (accompanied by the inevitable drips and red-wine rings that come with such a celebration) became a collaboratively created table runner, their sculptural beauty refracting the sunlight and reflecting a celebration well attended, a portent of the successful harvest about to begin.