Thaw
MILTON, NEW HAMPSHIRE | MARCH 2026
Often, the best of this world is experienced wholly, with every sense engaged so that your mind fills with the present moment and the rest washes away. There are a few things, however, that break that rule. A blustery spring day, when the sun shines with renewed energy over the earth, but the winds still whisper of winter, is one of those exceptions. It’s almost cruel, those first few days when the world begins to thaw after a long winter. The teasing feeling of warm sun on skin is so rudely interrupted by a cold breath of icy air. A few brave buds peek through the softening soil, not knowing that there are still frosts to come. But there’s such beauty in this in-between time, such hope in the perennial reminder that after death, life begins again.
We weren’t sure what weather we would get when we decided to host a New England Supper on the first day of spring, maybe drifts of snow, maybe seventy degrees — there was no way of knowing when we put it on the calendar. We ended up with, in some ways, the most spring day we could have asked for. Recent rains had revealed the landscape around the big white barn of The Greenery, the apple orchards and still-fallow fields of surrounding McKenzie’s Farm still dormant, naked in their brown bark and loam. We welcomed guests to the barn with firepits and an icy raw bar filled with fresh oysters. Chef Adrian Rico of Big Tree Catering was standing over the Big Green Egg rotisserie, shaving al pastor to order for taquitos. Everyone definitely had a bit of spring fever, bringing a buzzy energy to cocktail hour as guests greeted each other upon arrival. It seems like everyone knew someone else at the table!
The day was sunny and beautiful to behold, but the breeze was cutting, even when snuggled around the fire. So, we settled into the barn to get warm and officially welcomed everyone once seated. It was so much nicer to witness the blustery day through the barn’s beautiful wall of windows than to have to endure it with all five senses. We kept the table setting stark to match the surroundings, with gentle shades of green and ivory. Tulips offered welcome pops of color and a reminder of the beauty of rebirth with the new season.
The menu itself was full of vibrant colors, which contracted the muted backdrop. Purple-rimmed radishes and succulent pink lobster meat; many shades of green, from forest-bright broccolini to delicate herbs scattered over every plate; earthy red mole and garnet sweet potatoes served with saffron-infused amaro, finishing the meal with a summer sunset on the plate. Each course was expertly paired with wine or Zero Proof beverages to round out the full tasting experience. By the evening’s end, the white barn glowed with reflected light off the windows, the world now dark outside. The room filled with clinking glasses and good conversation. That moment, the meal shared, was one worth experiencing with all five senses, worth far more than just the pretty sight it created.
WELCOME
We hosted a welcome cocktail hour outside the barn, gathered around firepits. The first tastes of the night set the tone for the colorful meal to come, a hot pink hibiscus paloma or a fresh, herby gin cocktail greeted each guest, while chefs manned the grills outside, serving skewers and taquitos fresh from the coals. Around the corner, the raw bar waited with briny oysters, freshly harvested from the cold ocean nearby.
A MENU BY ADRIAN RICO
Chef Adrian Rico of Big Tree Catering typically creates menus highlighting New England seafood, but given the opportunity to break from the typical brand and lean into his own creativity, he reached back to his heritage to showcase the beauty and technique of Mexican cuisine. From al pastor shaved a la minute to three different kinds of mole, each of which simmered for over 36 hours, he pulled out all the stops, going big and bringing us back home with him through each delicious bite. Of course, he still made sure to serve fresh Maine lobster and oysters, as well.
MENU
WELCOME
Alambre Skewer grilled skirt steak, peppers, onion, cheese
Al Pastor Taquitos roasted pork, corn tortillas, grilled pineapple
Scallop Aguachile aguachile gelée, pickled red onions, cilantro, masa crisp
Cocktails
Hibiscus Paloma tequila, grapefruit, hibiscus, lime
Southside gin, mint, lime, simple syrup
Hibiscus Paloma (Zero Proof) ISH Mexican Agave
Spirit, grapefruit, hibiscus, lime
Southside (Zero Proof) ISH London Botanical Gin, mint, lime, simple syrup
FIRST
Grilled Broccolini En Nogada walnut white sauce, pickled kombu, pickled golden beets, pear, spicy cashew
Wine: 2023 Pulls Winery, Halozan, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Slovenia
SECOND
Lobster Pozole lobster, guajillo broth, nixtalized cacahuazintle corn, pickled watermelon radishes, napa cabbage, lime
Wine: 2023 Louis-Jadot Macon-Village, Chardonnay France
MAIN
Tetela Trio
duck confit with mole negro
plantain with mole rojo
quesillo with crema agria and queso fresco
Wine: 2023 Willajoy Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
CHEESE
Corn Churro goat cheese, honey, salsa macha
DESSERT
Camote Achicalado sweet potato, cinnamon, toasted nut crumble, vanilla bean ice cream
Handshake Amaro L’Amer Amargo, Maine
WINE PAIRINGS
We had the rare opportunity to leave wine pairings up to our chef team, since Big Tree comes with an expansive cellar of their own to choose from. They brought a few of their favorite wines that pair with the depth and delicacy of Mexican moles. We ended the meal with a local favorite Amaro, blended with Persian spices and saffron for a floral finish to the meal.
NIGHTCAP
As the night grew dark, dessert became a memory, and guests were sipping their final dregs of wine, we passed around a last sip to take home. Everyone received a custom box of small-batch tea from Smith Teamaker, a small token to chase off the chill once they got back home, or to break out on an upcoming unexpectedly snowy night before spring fully takes hold.
SECRET LOCATION: THE GREENERY
The huge, white barn of The Greenery, with a wall of windows overlooking the forest, offered us a chance to take in the stark beauty of this in-between season from behind closed doors. We stayed out of the wintry wind in the expansive space, still bathed in sunlight as the afternoon faded into the evening.
As we set up for Supper, the farmers of McKenzie’s Farm, where the Greenery is set, were just next door in one of the many greenhouses, readying spring’s first seedlings for planting.
